Main Diet
"Hedgehog" Food
How Much Kibble to Feed
Switching Foods
Treats
Storing Food
A Note About Water
Disclaimer

Main Diet:

Kibble Requirements:

Protein is important, but too much can cause kidney failure. Stick close to 30% protein levels. Avoid foods that have more than that (for example, the Wellness CORE foods which have great meat ingredients but 50% protein because of all that meat.)

Fat content should be ideally less than 15% in most of the kibble. A "treat" food in the mix can be a little more if your hedgie is not overweight, but even that treat's content should stay below 20% fat.

Good ingredients

• Chicken, lamb, beef, etc. -- anything listed as the plain and simple animal (avoid anything just labeled "animal" though because you have no way of knowing what that animal is--for all you know, it's roadkill!)
• meal -- meat meals are clean meats from the animal (This does NOT include blood meal)
• "meat and bone meal" -- this is less desirable than the first two, but still acceptable
• carrots, peas, other veggies, nutritional supplements, digestible grains; any of these are acceptable as long as they are the WHOLE product, and are not processed or parts of the food (i.e. beet pulp)
• Vitamin E -- as a preservative

Ingredients to Avoid

• by products, animal digest -- these are the non-muscle parts of an animal (like feathers, beaks, etc in birds)
• "animal fat"
• Blood Meal -- is produced from clean, fresh animal blood, exclusive of all extraneous material such as hair, stomach belchings and urine except as might occur unavoidably in good manufacturing process. You have no way of knowing what type of animal the blood came from or what residues of hormones, medications or other substances are in this product. It has a better use as fertilizer than as a pet food ingredient.
• beet pulp, pea hulls, brewer's rice, wheat gluten
• corn (this includes any kind of corn meal)
• BHA, BHT, Ethoxyquin -- these all cause cancer
• sweeteners (corn syrup, sucrose, propylene glycol...)
• coloring additives
• nuts and seeds

If you'd like an example of how to analyze the different foods, here is a page that demonstrates the process I use.

NOTE: Fiber is essential, as well. This is the difficult part because cats do not need as much fiber in their diet as hedgies. Many people add Grape-nuts cereal or infant rice cereal to the hedgie's mix to give that added fiber boost. Dog foods contain higher fiber, as well. If you can find a dog food that meets the guidelines for cat food and is small enough for hedgie consumption (many aren't, which is the reason cat food is used more commonly), you can try adding that into your hedgie's kibble mix. If you find a great food that you really want to use, but the kibble is too big/hard try breaking it up. I bought a food chopper at the dollar store for $2.50 that is really sturdy and works great (the kind used for chopping veggies). A food processor/blender might work as well if you'd like to try that. (I would recommend getting one ONLY for kibble use and not share with human food.)

Feed a Mix:

It is better to feed a mix of good ingredient, high-quality foods than just one food. That way if one of the foods is discontinued or the hedgie decides it doesn't like that particular food, there is another food that your hedgie is used to and will eat until you can introduce a new food--and also so that the protein in the diet comes from a variety of sources (i.e. if you have chicken for one, try to get salmon or lamb for another). Most foods in the mix should be low fat (15% or less) but if there is not a weight problem or your hedgie requires more fat (very young, pregnant mother, etc--but check with a vet for these first) there can be one with a slightly higher fat content--this should be considered the junk food in the mix, or the "french fries" of their diet. It's basically something that tastes really good that's just in there for a hedgie's enjoyment. A good mix should have at least 2-3 different food brands (some people prefer more). There is an excellent list of cat foods that are suitable for a hedgie's diet in this thread on the Hedgehog Central boards. It was put together by Reaper, and he did a great job. All the foods are hedgie suitable. The most recommended from the list are: Wellness Healthy Weight, Chicken Soup for the Cat Love's Soul Light, and Blue Spa Select Weight Management.

TIP:  When creating your mix, only put together a week or two's worth at a time instead of mixing it all together at once.  If your hedgehog develops an allergy or if a certain food is recalled and all your foods are mixed together, you will either have to pick out the undesired pieces individually or toss it all and buy new food.  It is easier to just keep the foods separate and create a new mix each week (or every two weeks).

If you don't want to mix your own food, ask a breeder. Many breeders will sell their mixes. If you bought your hedgie from a breeder, feel free to ask if they will sell you some of their mix.

Why high quality foods?

Most high-quality cat food brands run about $10 per bag, give or take $5, making them a little more expensive than foods sold at general stores. This is because there are better ingredients going into the foods (mainly meats). Most cheap foods you find at general stores have fillers as their main ingredients (things such as ground up corn, by-products, beet pulp, etc.), and most of those ingredients are not healthy for any pet, let alone your hedgehog. They're just on the shelves because they sell--due to the fact that they're cheap. Hedgehogs require a high-quality cat food mix, not the kind of stuff you can get at a typical non-pet-oriented store. When it comes to most of the good brands, you usually can't find them at a local department store. Wal-mart does not sell many (if any) high quality foods, and most grocery stores won't have them either. Check with a local pet store to see if they carry it, and check online with the manufacturer of the products to see if you can buy direct from them (they often have store locators to find stores in your area that sell it, as well) OR if they offer any deals. (Wellness actually has a "WellPet" club, where you get a newsletter every month or two with coupons and pet tips in it. They've had $5 off coupons in the newsletter before [which makes the food about $7 at my local store], and it's free to sign up.) One bag of dry cat food (a typical sized bag) can last a few months, depending on how much your hedgie eats. If you buy 2-3 bags of food and make your own mix, you can get a 6+ month supply--which doesn't actually cost much when it lasts that long (see storing food for tips on keeping it fresh). You can often get small samples of the foods from pet stores if you'd like to try them first to see if your hedgehog will like it or not before you invest in a big bag.

Be sure to ask...

When you get a new hedgie, you should ALWAYS talk to the previous owner and find out what the hedgie has been eating, and preferably try to get some of the food from them or go to the store and buy a bag of the same. An abrupt change in food will cause tummy troubles. Even if the food the hedgie was eating before wasn't of the best nutritional value, you should continue to feed it for a week or two while the hedgie settles in, then start the transition to a better food.

Think ahead:

Always keep in mind: Keep food on hand! I often see posts on forums saying "The bag of food is getting low and I can't get the food around here..." and "I ran out of food, is it okay to switch to [this]?" A change in diet needs to be a gradual transition if you're going to change it, otherwise a hedgie's tummy is going to go topsy-turvy and you're going to have one sick hedgie on your hands (and everywhere else, as it usually gives them diarrhea). If a food is not easily accessible in your area, consider trying to switch to another more available (but still nutritionally sound) food or figure out when you need to go to the store/order online before you run out. (If you order online, here is a page that offers discounts to many pet food distribution places. You might check the list to see if you can use a coupon for the place you're buying from and save some money.)

"Hedgehog" Food:

Keep in mind that most of the advertisements out there that say "ideal for hedgehogs!" or "complete hedgehog nutrition source!" aren't always correct. Always look at the bag to see what the ingredients are, and figure out for yourself whether it's a good hedgehog food.

There are many marketed brands out there that say they are "hedgehog food," however hedgehogs are insectivores and many of these foods are veggie based. This means hedgehogs do not get the nutrition they need from many of these so-called "hedgie diets." Be sure to check the ingredients on any hedgehog foods you find to be sure that they are acceptable.

The suitable foods are best mixed in with high quality cat foods for the best nutrition.  Personally, I wouldn't feed hedgehog food because the hedgie gets more nutrition from 2-3 brands of cat food and therefore commercial foods are a waste of money; if you feel the need to add a hedgehog food to your mix, some are better than others.  This list is just here for reference for those who would like to use it.

This list was put together by Reaper from the Hedgehog Central boards. It is reposted here with his permission. This is the original thread on the boards, for more detail.

VitaKraft products in general are bad for hedgehogs, so try to avoid those even as treats. They often are full of sugar and are really high in fat. Some members of the hedgehog community have actually dubbed it "VitaKrap".

This page has a list of the most common commercial foods and their ingredients, and a rating from me as to whether it is something I would feed or not: Commercial Food Analysis. I hope that it can help you make a decision whether or not you want to add certain commercial foods to your hedgehog's mix.  Note that no commercial foods are currently suitable enough to be fed alone.

How Much to Feed:

Hedgehogs generally eat 2-3 tablespoons of kibble per night. They normally do not overeat.

All hedgies should be free-fed kibble, meaning you fill the dish with food then re-fill it as it gets low. They should be allowed to eat as much kibble as they want each night.  Hedgies will generally eat around the same amount so you will be able to guess-timate the amount he/she will eat each night after you've watched the eating habits for a week or two (first week in a new home doesn't count because they often start eating more when settled in).

If your hedgie is overweight or inactive: Take a look at what you're feeding--do NOT limit kibble intake.  If the hedgie is on a 15%+ fat food, slowly switch to something lower in fat using the "Switching foods" method listed below.  Most hedgehogs only eat when hungry, so limiting kibble is a cruel practice.  Switching to a lower % of fat, making sure he/she gets plenty of exercise, and choosing low-fat treats carefully (and giving THOSE in moderation) is a much better practice.  If your hedgehog is overweight, consult with your vet about the best care regime for your situation. Only limit kibble as a last resort and under the guidance of a vet.

Switching Foods:

You don't want to just immediately start feeding a new food as hedgie digestive systems need time to adjust to new foods. This is a gradual process that will take about a month. Here is the standard procedure for switching from one kibble mix to another:

Week 1: 1/4 new, 3/4 old

Week 2: 1/2 new, 1/2 old

Week 3: 3/4 new, 1/4 old

Week 4: All new

How well this goes depends upon the individual hedgie. Take things slowly. If the hedgie doesn't seem to be taking well to it, try a little longer (i.e. do 1/4 new, 3/4 old for 2 weeks instead of just one, and so forth).

If your hedgie doesn't want to eat the new food, it could be because it doesn't smell like the old food the hedgie has grown up eating. There are a couple of things you can do.

• You can try mixing the new food and the old food together and seal it up in a ziploc bag. This allows the scents of the food blend together.
• You can grind up some of the old food and sprinkle it on the new food so the new food is masked by the scent of the old food.

Some hedgies will readily eat a new food (it seems to happen a lot in cases where the hedgie has eaten unsuitable commercial hedgehog foods for a long time, and then when presented with kibble will no longer touch the commercial food). Other hedgies will put a new food in their litter pan. It just depends on the individual hedgie, and what they like.

Treats:

- A healthy hedgehog diet consists of the staple kibble mix, plus a variety of treats. Mix it up and try new things! Only try one new treat at a time, however. That way if there is stomach discomfort or anything, you know which treat did it. And remember: they are insectivores, so the kibble diet should definitely be supplemented with insects!

- Moving to a new home is very stressful to a hedgehog. They are almost guaranteed to have an upset tummy from stress anyway. If the hedgie has never been introduced to a treat before, wait a week or two for the hedgie to settle in to try a new treat. (For example, if the breeder hasn't already introduced the hedgie to mealworms, wait a week before trying to feed mealies.)

- Give small portions of treats (at first only a mouthful; a teaspoon or less later), and try to remove any leftovers within a few hours so your hedgie is not eating spoiled food, especially when it comes to any meats/eggs/baby foods.

- Do not give treats every day because they can make your hedgie overweight if fed too often. 3-4 times per week is a pretty standard amount. The exception to this rule is when you are first bonding. For the first week or two, you can use as many mealworms as you need to in order to win the hedgie's trust.

Good treats

(Insects)

• mealworms 1-4 per night (small ones, NOT the "super" ones [they can bite] or the "giant" ones [they contain a growth hormone that has unknown effects on hedgehogs over time and there's no point in risking it]) -- If you would like to keep a steady supply of live mealworms going for your hedgie by raising them, click here
• crickets 2-3 per night -- If you want to raise crickets, try this link. (Note that they are more work than mealworms)
• waxworms 1-4 per night
• silkworms 1-3 a night

Any of the above can be freeze dried, canned, or live. The amount of freeze dried insects fed should be limited to once or twice a week, because feeding every day has been reported to cause intestinal impaction problems. (Grasshoppers are an option, too, however most hedgies don't want to have anything to do with them because they're so big).

TIP: Insects are a required part of the diet, but if you have trouble getting your hedgie to eat live insects, try canned insects (found in the reptile section of pet stores). Hedgies can sometimes be afraid of live insects (like crickets), but using the canned version can let them get the taste of the insect as well as the smell and they can become more comfortable with it. Get some tweezers (or a disposable plastic spoon specially for the purpose) to transfer them from can to bowl, because they are definitely moist and you probably won't want to touch them. Keep the can in the fridge after opening or they'll go bad quickly (refrigerated, they have about a 2 week shelf-life once opened). After a while, you can try the live bugs again if you want. You can try freeze dried bugs in an effort to get the hedgie prepared for live food, too, if you like. These aren't smelly though and are hard so most hedgies won't as readily eat them as they will the canned treats.

(Other treats)

• tsp of baby food (chicken, beef, different veggies/fruits) -- some hedgies like this, some do not; be sure it's warm -- at least room temperature -- before you give any; look for foods with just the fruit/veggie and water for processing and avoid too many extra additives. **Be sure to AVOID onion powder in the ingredients**
• unseasoned chicken / turkey / tuna / salmon (the fish should be fresh only because canned fish contains too much salt for hedgies)
• a little moist cat food (see this page for the guaranteed analysis information about moist cat food)
• mashed up/ cut up hard boiled egg (some enjoy scrambled eggs, too)
• cottage cheese (only a little, and only once in awhile -- should definitely NOT be fed daily)
• safe fruits: apple, watermelon, banana, pears, strawberries, cantaloupe, papaya, mango,and peaches
• safe veggies: pumpkin, squash, cooked carrots (NOT raw), cooked sweet potato, radish, turnip, green pepper, mashed potatoes, asparagus, and cooked peas
  
  NOTE: Use common sense with fruits and veggies. No seeds or pits should be in any of it, and cut everything into small enough pieces that things won't get stuck in mouths, especially hard veggies. They should also be unsalted. 3-5 small pieces is enough for a treat, depending on the fruit/veggie. If it's a fruit that spoils quickly, take it out of the cage after a few hours and do not leave it overnight.


• Try Miss Murray's Marvelous Mash for a nice homemade treat with some variety



• And when birthday time rolls around, give Laura Dunklee's Hedgie Birthday Cake a try! (Found in the January/February 2007 HWS newsletter, on page 9)
  

  Hedgie Birthday Cake Whip one egg until frothy and pour about 1/2 into a very small microwave safe dish. Add a small amount of flaked, broiled (no seasoning) salmon fruit. Cover with plastic wrap & microwave until set (it'll puff up and then collapse back on itself). When cooled, use a sharp knife to run around the edge of the bowl to loosen the "cake". Frost with baby food and drizzle with baby food sweet potatoes. Garnish with ground kibble and add freeze-dried mealies as candles.

  Photo copyright of HWS Do not reuse without their permission!

Unsafe foods

DO NOT FEED THESE THINGS TO YOUR HEDGIE

• grapes/raisins
• avocados
• oranges/lemons/lime/citrus anything
• nuts or seeds
• chocolate
• milk/dairy products (exception is cottage cheese, listed above)
• alcohol
• bread
• celery
• onion and onion powder
• raw carrots
• tomatoes
• human junk food (chips, candy, anything really sugary, etc.)
• honey
• raw meat (ANY meat you feed a hedgie should be cooked!)
• Wild caught bugs

Storing Food:

You have a ton of extra food around for your hedgie, because hedgies only eat a few tablespoons a night. So what should you do with the extra so that it doesn't go bad and become unusable?

Almost any food you buy for your hedgie is preservable. Here's what you do:

- Extra kibble mix that you won't be using in the next two weeks can simply be put in a ziploc bag and tossed in the freezer until you need it; what you're using (a two week supply) can be kept in a ziploc bag outside the freezer. Of course, let the frozen food thaw for a day or so before use.  Lay it out on a paper towel to do so, and don't just leave it in the bag because the moisture will cause it to mold.  The food keeps quite well in the freezer. Some people also like to seal kibble in tupperware containers with lids then place the container in a cool dry place. Those who do so say that it will keep well for close to a year that way (I've not tried it myself).

- Baby food can be spooned out by serving size (about a teaspoon) into an ice cube tray and frozen overnight, then just popped out and put in a ziploc bag. Be sure to put the date on there and use them within reasonable amounts of time. To use, simply put one in a dish and pop it in the microwave a few seconds (I had an old microwave that took 30 seconds, I have a new microwave that takes 5-10, so your time may vary) then let it cool a minute or two to be sure it's about room temperature (be sure you check the temperature; you don't want to burn your hedgie). Be sure to remove any leftovers within a few hours.

Lessening the chance of freezer burn: I saw a good tip in a magazine so I figured I'd share. If you don't have one of those machines that suck the air out of ziplock bags before sealing them, you can try this: push out as much as air possible as you lock the bag; leave a small crack on one side, then slide a straw into it and suck the extra air out until the bag is seals down around the food; slide the straw out and quickly seal the crack.

- Mealworms can be kept alive and fresh for periods of time in the fridge (if you are not planning on raising mealworms, but want to have them alive for your hedgie). Every week or two, sit the container out of the fridge and put a piece of carrot or potato in it. Let it warm up for 24-48 hours so the mealworms can eat, then simply remove the carrot/potato and put them back in the fridge.

A Note About Water:

Please keep in mind that clean water is just as essential as good food.  Tap water is often contaminated in many communities, deemed "safe" for human consumption but can actually still be harmful for hedgehogs.  Because of this, you should consider the options and decide what source of water will be best for your hedgehog.  The two main choices are: bottled and filtered.  Please look here for more information.

Disclaimer:

The information provided on this page is what I personally use for my hedgehog. It is a compilation of things that I've learned from different breeders and experienced hedgehog owners in my short ownership time, and I only present it because I feel that it is good, solid, correct information. If you feel that something I have presented here is questionable, please let me know.

What you feed your hedgehog is entirely up to you and it is up to you to correctly research and find out what is best for your hedgehog. The information presented here is what I found in my research and what I feel is best for mine. Unfortunately what is known about an African Pygmy Hedgehog's dietary needs is still a lot of uncharted territory, even though the current information is much better than it was a few years ago. Because of this, I will not be held responsible for any problems that may arise due to diet choices.