If you haven't yet, you should check out the supplies section for details about the things you need for your hedgie's every day general care and comfort.

You should do as much research as possible before you get your hedgie--because once you have the little guy/gal you'll find that you still have questions, but also that it's easier to figure out the best way to address those questions if you already have a good knowledge-base. Be careful where you get your information from, though, as different people have many different opinions. For good reliable information, please visit the sites on my links page, and just keep in mind that you should always be a little critical about the information of any other sites you might visit--if something doesn't sound right to you, try going to Hedgehog Central and searching the topic; if nothing shows up in the results, then ask. All the links I have up were selected carefully.

Set up the location of the cage BEFORE you go get your hedgie. Keep in mind that the location needs to be in a warm area, which rules out basement areas as they are too moist and cold for hedgies, especially near the floor. Choose locations carefully for the benefit of both you and the hedgie. Also keep in mind that you should hedgie proof the room--hedgies are GREAT escape artists and if it happens to get out of the cage, the room should be prepared (you should make every effort to have an escape-proof cage, though). Hedgehog "Hide and Seek"

When you go to pick up your hedgie, you should take a carrier with you in which to put your hedgie. Hard-sided cat carriers are the preferred choice. Look at the travel section for more information.

Ask the previous owner about what food the hedgie has been eating, and ask them to give you some, if possible. Abrupt changes in food can cause an upset tummy, on top of the stress of moving to a new home. Try to get some of the food the previous owner was feeding and then change slowly off that if you wish to change. If you switch the hedgie off the normal food too quickly (for example, getting home the first day and giving something you think is better) it can upset the hedgie's stomach even more than the stress from moving and cause diarrhea. Always ask the person you got the hedgie from about what they've been feeding.

When you first bring hedgie home, you should place him/her in the cage and give some space for 24 hours or so. This is so the hedgehog has time to settle in and get used to the new surroundings without the unnecessary stress of being handled too much right away. Try putting a t-shirt you've recently worn in the cage, so that the hedgie can get used to your scent without you actually having to be right there (check to be sure there are no loose threads on it that legs can get caught in).

After that first 24 hour acclimation period, you can also sit beside the cage and talk softly to your new friend to get them used to the sound of your voice. It will probably take at least a week or two before a new hedgie gets used to you--and don't be discouraged if it takes longer than that, just keep trying.

One thing I learned the hard way is that when it comes to first getting your hedgie home, you're going to worry about everything. Do NOT panic or freak out over little things--for example, if they can get their head into a foam tube, they can probably get it back out on their own even if they look stuck. Just give them a little bit and see what they do. It will be okay.

Another thing you should keep in mind is that moving from the place previously called home is a stressful time. During the first day or so, any poop is likely to be a green color. This should clear up within a day or so (if not, a vet visit will be in order; however, most of the time it clears up within a day). This is caused by the stress of moving to a new home, and is basically an upset tummy.

When you're handling and picking up your new hedgie, don't hesitate! Just do it! Slowly put your hand in and allow the hedgie to smell you. Then gently place your hands palms up on each side of the body with your fingers pointed in toward their body (with their face away from you, preferably). The hedgie will likely ball up and start huffing at you. Wait a second until it calms down a little. Then just slide your hands slowly underneath the belly and loosely cup up around the body. This allows you to mainly touch the soft fur underneath, and not get pricked as much, and allows the hedgie to get a footing in your hand which will make them feel safer. You have to remember not to be afraid and just do it, because if you back away due to the balling and huffing the hedgie is going to get the idea that doing that will make you leave it alone. You HAVE to pick your hedgie up daily and hold it, even if it hisses at you and sticks its quills up. I often see people posting on forums saying that they thought they should leave their little guy alone because he hissed at them. This is the incorrect thing to do. The hedgie will never get used to you if you don't pick it up and interact. Be prepared to sit there and hold the hedge until it stops huffing and balling. And if you get bitten, don't put the hedgie down because that's what it wants. Instead, wait until it releases the grip (so you don't hurt any teeth), then move your hand away and sternly say "NO". If you put the hedgie immediately back into the cage, that will show it that biting gets you to go away. You have to show that biting will not change your behavior, and should sit there for a while after it happens.

Don't force your hedgie. Trying to pry the hedgie out of its ball or purposefully scaring it so that it will go into a ball will create a hedgie that wants nothing to do with people EVER. Yes, odds are that the hedgie will ball up when you go near it; that's natural, don't worry about that. By purposefully, I mean intentionally doing things and making noises that will freak the hedgie out.

Do not wear gloves to pick your hedgie up. A hedgehog identifies you by your scent, and that scent is masked if you have gloves on your hands. If your hedgie is VERY huffy and you really fear for your hands in picking him/her up, use a towel with your scent on it. Tuck it under your pillow and sleep with it a few nights to have it ready. Then you can pick the hedgie up, your scent will still be present, and neither of you gets hurt/feels uncomfortable. This should not be a permanent solution, though.

Don't feel bad about resorting to treats to get hedgie used to you. Once you've picked them up, wait until they unball in your hand and then feel free to offer a mealworm. Positive reinforcement will go a long way.

When interacting with your hedgehog, be aware of the surroundings. If it is too noisy or too bright, a hedgehog will be upset and may stay balled up or not move around much. If have your hedgie out and you notice that your hedgie isn't exploring all that much and is just being still with quills a little raised, try turning some lights off or turning the TV volume a little lower.

Your hedgehog will anoint. This means the little critter is going to lick something a bunch of times, then contort itself into crazy positions

Your hedgehog is a little poop machine. Some are worse than others, but when they are babies they poop A LOT. This is because of such a short digestive tract. They can't control it for very long, so don't take it personally if you get pooped on or peed on. (Keep in mind that they usually have to go within a few minutes of waking up, so you might try waking the hedgie up then putting it back in the cage for a few minutes for a potty break.) Adults are a little better about it, and some can even be litter trained, but some will want nothing to do with litter training and will go where they please. Some will totally cover their cages in poop, while others will only go in a certain area. It all depends on the hedgie and individual personalities as to how messy they are. But they ALL poop a LOT as babies, so be prepared and have a paper towel nearby during playtime.

- Feeding treats: Feeding treats from fingertips can cause nipping because the hedgehog can't tell where the treat ends and your finger begins.  Instead of giving treats from fingertips, try placing the treat in your palm or on your thigh.  That way there is a bigger surface area so the hedgehog can tell the difference between it and the treat.  If you don't like touching wiggly insects, some people use a plastic spoon to pick up and give treats.

- Scents are everything to a hedgehog: The way the hedgehog identifies you is by your smell.  If you use different soaps/shampoos/perfumes/colognes/lotions all the time, the hedgehog may not recognize your scent.  You should try to pick one and stick with it, at least until your hedgehog gets settled in.  Doing otherwise can make your hedgehog huffy all the time.  You should also try to wash your hands before handling, preferably with an unscented soap, because some scents will cause a hedgehog to bite, thinking that you're food.

- Don't be surprised if the hedgehog doesn't sleep where you intended:  Hedgies thwart the best-laid plans all the time.  If you have a connector tube to another part of the cage, the hedgie will probably choose to sleep in it instead of in an igloo/snuggle sack.  Some hedgehogs will even decide to sleep under a liner instead of in a sleep sack/etc.  No matter what you do, your hedgehog will likely find a way to surprise you.

- Don't be surprised if the way you arranged the cage isn't good enough: Some hedgies are very picky about where their furniture is placed and will rearrange the cage to suit their own fancy.  When you do clean-up afterward, you can try putting the items back in the position the hedgehog put them in and see if they get rearranged again.  Some hedgehogs get things the way they like them, then want them there every night--or they'll rearrange themselves and rip the cage apart. 

- Some hedgies love getting under liners:  This also often results in overturned food dishes and chaos. If you find your hedgehog does this and you want to stop it, you can Velcro the corners of the liner down to the cage--although some persistent hedgies manage to get under anyway.  If you don't care about the fact that he/she is under the liner, but do care about spilling: some people also have taken ceramic tiles, wrapped them in fleece, and placed them in a corner with the food and water dishes on them so they don't get upset.

- Getting your hedgehog out of the bag: When I picked my hedgehog up from the breeder, she gave me a fleece snuggle sack.  Quentin went into the snuggle sack nicely--and refused to unball to come out later.  Perplexed as a new owner, I could not figure out the answer to this basic question: how do I get my hedgehog out of his bag?  The answer is one I eventually figured out on my own: very carefully.  As you get more used to your hedgehog, you will be able to just reach into the bag and pick them up.  In the meantime, you can pull the back of the bag up into the air a little, tilting it slightly higher than the opening, and gently tug on it.  The hedgie should start sliding down.  Just make sure you do it gently, and that you don't hurt the hedgehog by shaking too hard or letting him/her fall off the soft surface when they reach the bottom. (This should only be done on a flat, safe surface).

- If you garden or work in soil a lot, be sure to wear gloves before digging in the soil if you've handled your hedgie in the past few hours.  Hedgehogs prick the hands making it easier for bacteria to enter.  There's a disease that people who rose garden get because they get pricked and then dig in the dirt--a hedgehog can cause the same thing, letting the dirt get into the little places that have been pricked.  This normally only happens with direct contact right before digging, but allowing a few hours' time if you want to go glove-less is worth it compared to the risk.

Over time, you should get into a routine with your hedgie. Try to wake him/her up at the same time every night, groom, have play time, etc. Some hedgies get very much into the routine, then are actually disappointed if you get off schedule.

Daily Tasks

• Make sure the temperature remains steadily between 72 and 80 degrees daily, year round. (See heat sources if you're unsure about options.)
• Make sure there is 12-14 hours of light available in the room (ie lamp bulbs aren't blown, etc).
• Check on your hedgie in the morning to be sure there were no hibernation attempts overnight and do a leg check.
• In the evening, clean the cage (this includes the litter box if you have one and spot cleaning any accidents, in addition to picking up spilled food from under liners or in the bedding because the food can grow bacteria quickly--this is why it is not a good idea to allow "secret" stashes)
• Wash any messy toys (including the wheel).
• Give clean food/water.
• Give a foot bath, if hedgie has poopy boots (from running on the wheel).
• Hold and play with your hedgie.

Longer Term Tasks

• One or twice a week (at least) you should change the liner/bedding.
• Weigh your hedgie once a week and record the weight so you can spot potential health problems early. If you notice anything unusual, go to the vet. Take a look at this page: Health Care/Vet
• Every two-three weeks or so, trim nails.
• Once or twice a month, give a full bath.
• At least once a year, go in for a routine vet checkup (even if your hedgie hasn't had any problems). See General Vet Visit for more information.
• The last thing you should remember: Always love your hedgie!

Hopefully you and your new friend will have a long life together, that's what! Domesticated African Pygmy Hedgehogs have an average lifespan of 3 to 8 years, and some have lived to be 10.

If you decide to take in a second hedgie in the future after you've had some experience, whether a rescue or from a breeder, please look at this page. (I only recommend doing so after you've had a year or two of experience, though).